Mr. Naohiro Yamada, owner and chef of “RiVi” (Osaka), develops beautiful and innovative dishes that are not limited by food categories. His profile is borderless, with his career stared as a patisserie after graduating from the confectionery school, then he went on cooking Italian and French cuisine. We were able to shoot two of his signature dishes, “Squid with plum meat” and “Tataru with horse meat”.
Okay, so let’s start with the ingredients I’m using.
The squid I’m I picked out is called “bigfin reef.” I keep it chilled in the freezer for a bit, but that actually breaks up its fibers and gives it a nice sticky texture.
Then I’m combining two different sauces. I take a rape blossom puree sauce with minced dried plum together with another sauce that uses reduced red wine and umeshu (plum liqueur). I also pair this with sea urchin. I use this dish as a way to showcase the spring season.
This here is the bigfin reef squid.
First I have to clean the squid. I’m going to remove all of the insides and slice away the head portion.
Q: Do different types of squid require different cleaning techniques?
All squid is more or less the same.
They’re a lot like fish in the way that their bone structure is the same.
The cut up portions of squid are going to need some light scoring.
Q: Why does it need scoring?
Scoring it will widen its overall surface area, which helps bring out its sweetness. It adds some tenderness as well.
After that I’m going to spread olive oil on it and get it cooking over the burner.
The squid will lose its moisture if I add in salt ahead of time, so I’ll wait and add salt when it’s done.
Here are all of the ingredients I’m using:
Horse meat, tuna, capers, apricots, shallots, chives, Japanese pepper leaf, natto, mayonnaise, and chili pepper (harissa).
First I’ll add the natto to chicken broth (brodo) along with a 1:1 ratio of water. I’ll boil the mixture until I get a syrupy texture. The syrupy natto will then get deep fried in 180 degree oil. It tends to break up so you have to be careful when you do it.
Q: Wow, so you’re using natto!? Where did you come up with that idea?
In Kumamoto I ate a dish made up of natto, horse meat, and egg yolks. So, when I was coming up with the tartare I started thinking about how good the natto paired up with the horse meat was. That’s how the idea came about.
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