After changing course to gastronomy-style fare, “agnel d’or” picked up a star from the Osaka-Kyoto Michelin Guide, and today it’s a popular favorite among culinary taste makers. The chef, Akinari Fujita, primarily trained in regional French cuisine, picking up experience from places like Normandy, Basque, and Lyon. One of the thoughts that he shared with us was about his desire to “reveal the best of Kansai cuisine and create something that can also shine through to people from Tokyo.” So, we put this Foodion cooking video together to help shed light on his culinary thought process.
This time around we’ll be featuring some dishes from Chef Fujita with venison and fish.
Q: As a chef you spent time training at a sushi restaurant. Do those experiences still resonate with you now?
Oh yeah, very much so.
My approach to hitting that saltiness in fish and other things like that is a lot like a sushi chef, so those sorts of methods certainly do show up in my cooking.
This time I’m going to be working with fish, which will be blackfin sea bass from the Goto Islands.
For now I’m going to get the thickest portions of meat and slice it up the way I need to.
I’m going to add on trehalose to bring out a bit of saltiness from the fish.
Q: What kind of effect does trehalose have?
It separates the moisture and adds an emission effect.
Typically fish marinades have things like salt, spices, and sugar.
I want a marinade that gives a gentle texture, but I don’t want to add on sweetness. So for sweetness I use half sugar and half trehalose.
Just the salt alone is enough to give the flavor some sharpness.
From there I’m going to set it in the fridge for a while to let the moisture separate.
I’m going to put together a dish that takes “shintama” deer meat cooked with a technique called poché (boil/poach).
A “shintama” cut refers to a portion of meat between the deer’s inner and outer thigh, which happens to be the most tender.
I’ll start by removing the sinewy muscle tissue.
I’m going to add this to a vacuum-sealed pack together with reduced venison stock and warm them up together.
Q: Why do you use a reduced stock?
The flavor gets considerably shallow if the stock is watery.
By using a reduction for the venison stock you can get a strong, dense venison flavor that stands out even more than the meat would on its own.
Q: Other than that what type of ingredients do you add to the stock?
I add in onions and stuff like that to capture a sort of venison bouillon.
The reduced stock and shintama cuts go into the pack and then I use a vacuum sealer to close it up.
Then I’ll set the temperature to 52 degrees and slowly apply heat to it.
I do this very delicately for about an hour to make sure the meat doesn’t lose its juices.
After that I’ll finish it off over a flame.
2-4-4 nishihonmachi, Osaka-shi, Osaka-fu 550-0005, JAPAN
Lunch 12：00 – 13：15（L.O）
Dinner 18：00 – 20：00（L.O）
Monday, Tuesday lunch time