2019.10.14

Horse Tartare│ RiVi│ Foodion Recommended Foodion Cooking Videos

Horse Tartare

Vol. 1: Preliminary work

Yamada:
Here are all of the ingredients I’m using:
Horse meat, tuna, capers, apricots, shallots, chives, Japanese pepper leaf, natto, mayonnaise, and chili pepper (harissa).

First I’ll add the natto to chicken broth (brodo) along with a 1:1 ratio of water. I’ll boil the mixture until I get a syrupy texture. The syrupy natto will then get deep fried in 180 degree oil. It tends to break up so you have to be careful when you do it.

Q: Wow, so you’re using natto!? Where did you come up with that idea?

Yamada:
In Kumamoto I ate a dish made up of natto, horse meat, and egg yolks. So, when I was coming up with the tartare I started thinking about how good the natto paired up with the horse meat was. That’s how the idea came about.

Vol. 2: Main preparation

Yamada:
In Italy it’s quite rare to find the opportunity to eat dishes with raw ingredients. In general I think that food started with the cooking process. So at first I tried cooking around the edges of it, but the in end I figured that the tartare should be raw and left as is. That’s why I use raw horse meat.

I finely cut down each of these ingredients and match them up together.

Q: How do you decide which ingredients go together?

Yamada:
Well, horse meat was the first thing I thought of when I started. Sometimes horse meat is referred to as “sakura niku,” which invokes the spring season.
That’s how I got thinking about using horse meat as the central theme of this dish.
I’m a bit of a slow worker, and I start off taking a lot of time to think about the meaning of each ingredient I’m using.
Once my ideas formulate and become whole I’ll get started on a prototype dish.
I spend a lot of time just thinking about it. My mind is always centered on food.

Q: Is it ever a burden to focus so much attention on food like that?

Yamada:
Half the time it’s a burden and the other half of the time it’s a real pleasure. It’s such a thrill when my ideas come to fruition. It’s even better when I get something that surpasses my expectations.

The cut up horse meat and tuna get mixed with mayonnaise and a fish sauce made from sweetfish.
The horse meat has an exceptionally strong flavor, so the tuna is meant to soften it. Those two ingredients come together perfectly, so I like to take advantage of that bond. The tuna is very familiar, which helps makes the dish more accessible.
I need a foamy sauce, which is where the milk and fresh cream come in. I also add in horseradish and soy lecithin, then heat it all together.

Vol. 3: Finishing touches and plating

Yamada:
Lastly I’m going to finish everything up and plate it.
The froth that I made earlier from heating up milk and fresh cream is going to go on top.
I add on some horseradish shavings and top it with Japanese pepper leaf as well. It’s done after that.

When I came up with this dish I wanted to make something with a nostalgic sensibility that really tugged on people’s heart strings. That’s the main idea that inspired me to make it.
I wanted to capture that feeling where the flavors are fresh and novel, but somehow nostalgic and familiar at the same time. Basically I want the dish to come across in a way that’s not too strange or unfamiliar.

 

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